Further upgrades on Route 2, diagrams added
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# Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
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![](workbench.jpg)
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For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know that's not great (it's better than nothing!)
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## Making the PCB
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Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer
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method to etch the Pyralux sheets as you would a usual PCB
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> NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out, voilà Toner based copies!
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[Here's a handy toner transfer guide ... ](http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/)
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Print these PCB designs out...
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Left hand:
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![](left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png)
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Right hand:
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![](right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png)
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When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into
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pieces... See the images below.
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## This is Madness...
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The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand:
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![](madness.jpg)
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Solder the MCP like so:
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![](left-hand-mcp-1.jpg)
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![](left-hand-mcp-2.jpg)
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Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so:
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![](teensy-1.jpg)
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Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small diagram and notes)
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![](teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg)
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Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so:
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![](right-hand-pcb-1.jpg)
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Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the Pyralux:
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![](right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg)
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Here the left hand:
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![](hotglue-left-hand.jpg)
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That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!)
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@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
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* Preparation and Cost
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Get all the parts / raw material
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Get all the parts / raw material:
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- For the 3D printing there are two options:
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1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
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which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
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@ -164,9 +164,9 @@
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*** Step 1: Creating the rows
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Using the copper wire you solder each row together, notice how the thumb-part gets its own
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row. If you take a close look you can see how I did do a messy job soldering, I had to redo
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some of the parts because they weren't soldered properly. Do this for both sides. Which ones of
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the pins you chose for the row doesnt matter, but for it to look clean you should decide for
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either one of them
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some of the parts because they weren't soldered properly. Do this for both sides. Which ones
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of the two available pins of each switch you chose for the row doesnt matter, but for it to
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look clean you should decide for either one of them.
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[[file:wiring_create_rows.jpg]]
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@ -183,19 +183,26 @@
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black part towards the switch, it is important that you follow that pattern for all of the
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switches. The end where that color-mark is denotes the direction of the diode. The way these
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diodes are directed, we have to have a firmware that "drives the rows", which means the
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electricity can go from the column through the pressed switch through the row, but not the
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other way around (TODO: insert diagram here to explain this further).
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electricity can go from the row through the pressed key-switches to the columns, but not the
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other way around.
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These following sketches are supposed to make the two "driving"-options the ergodox-firmware
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has more clear.
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[[file:diode-diagram-drive-columns.png]]
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[[file:diode-diagram-drive-rows.png]]
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Luckily in our firmware "ergodox-firmware" we have the option that adapts to that. However if
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you want to try and use the "tmk_keyboard" firmware which seems to be also interesting you
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want to wire the diodes the other way. This way the "columns are driving". As a side note, for
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some reason the tmk_keyboard firmware things of rows as columns and the other way around, so
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some reason the tmk_keyboard firmware thinks of rows as columns and the other way around, so
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if you look through the source code it will also see "drive rows", even though that means
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"driving columns".
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The tmk_keyboard firmware could also be used for this kind of wiring, but it would have to be
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rewritten, maybe in a beautiful way, such that it can also "drive rows". However I didnt go
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ahead and perfomed that rewriting, so I had to stick with the "ergodox-firmware". In retrospect
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ahead and perfom that rewriting, so I had to stick with the "ergodox-firmware". In retrospect
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I'd wish I had wired the diodes the other way around.
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The first picture doesnt show how the 6 thumb-keys are actually individually connected to the 6
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[[file:wiring-create-columns-right.jpg]]
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TODO: Insert diagram of how the thumb-keys are connected to the main clumns.
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How Thumb-keys are wired again depends on the firmware, the following picture shows the wiring
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of the thumb keys more clearly and also the part in the code that reflects this wiring
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(ergodox-firmware/src/keyboard/dactyl/matrix.h).
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[[file:thumb-key-wiring.jpg]]
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*** Put the Teensy and the MCP in place
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This next step is to wire the Teensy 2.0 and the MCP 23018 in place.
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[[file:circuit-diagram.png]]
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[[file:rows-and-columns-connected-to-chips.jpg]]
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Things to note here:
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- The columns for the MCP go from 0 to 6, the columns for the Teensy go from 7 to D (counting
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in hexadecimal) which makes great sence, since the MCP is left to the Teensy and we read from
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left to right.
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- When debugging this and using the ergodox-firmware, both sides have to be wired completely
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and actually connected, dont expect the keyboard to work before that. The reason being is how
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and actually with the TTRS connected, dont expect the keyboard to work before that. The reason being is how
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the ergodox-firmware stops completely if either the Teensy or the MCP weren't initiated
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properly.
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- In the circuit-diagram the columns on the left side (MCP side) actually go from GPA5 to INTA
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gets used directly in the ergodox-firmware, so just connect those connections that make no
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sense on first sight and either dont question it or find out why this is necessary by going
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through the firmware in great detail.
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[[file:rows-and-columns-connected-to-chips.jpg]]
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How the TRRS jacks are wired for both sides:
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[[file:trrs-jacks.jpg]]
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